vocab
basic wrap
also known as straight wrap, perm wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction with equal sized bases
Ph of alkaline /cold waves and recommended hair type
9.0-9.6, coarse thick or non porous hair
In what decade were old fashioned rollers made of wire coils covered with a strong mesh?
1950s
relaxer
what ph do relaxers work at?
12-14
ammonium thioglycolate
ATG- active ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, very little odor
Ph of exothermic wave and recommended hair type
9.0-9.6, coarse thick non porous hair
who invented the Jheri curl?
Jheri redding
NEVER apply a ____ relaxer over hair that has been treated with _____ relaxer
thio, hydroxide
what decade did the first commercial hair-straightening products become popular?
1900s
lanthionization
process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair, they remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond
ph of low- ph wave and recommended hair type
6.5-7.0, moisture balanced, fine or damaged
who developed the first practical permanent wave machine?
Karl Nessler
what two relaxers are incompatible? and will result in severe damage and hair loss if overlapped
why do perms smell?
sulfur containing chemicals that are reacting to the hair protein
glyceryl monothioglycolate
GMTG- main active ingredient in true acid and acid balanced waving lotions
ph of thio-free wave and recommended hair type
7.0-9.6, porous to moisture balanced
Ancient Egyptians sometimes wrapped hair around ____ and used ____ or heat to create waves
sticks and used mud
what will happen if you mix the activator tube from a perm with the neutralizer instead of waving solution?
a VIOLENT chemical reaction, that can cause injury - especially to the eyes
How did a machine perform perms in the early 1900s?
they hung heavy heated rods from a frame above the clients head
calcium hydroxide
or Ca(OH) active ingredient in a no lye based relaxer; ph level of a no- lye relaxer is typically lower than a lye based relaxer - often used with dryer hair
ph of ammonia-free wave and recommended hair type
7.0-9.6, porous to moisture balanced
what two decades were perms in their peak popularity?
1970s & 1980s
Biggest safety concern for hair relaxers?
scalp burns
what could cause relaxed hair to change colors?
smoking and medication