Rating Systems
Terms
Moves and Holds
Anchors and Belaying
Lead Climbing and Falling
100

Technical climbing where a rope is necessary.

What is class 5?

100

The toughest move or sequence of moves in a climb.

What is the crux?

100

A large, easily gripped hold.

What is a jug?

100

Pull Brake Under Slide.

What is the proper method for top rope belaying?

100

Two incorrect ways to clip the rope into a quick draw.

What are back clipping and Z clipping?

200

Simple climbing that is exposed. A rope is often used.

What is class 4?

200

Information about a climb.

What is beta?

200

A small hold in which you may only use part of your fingers to grip.

What is a crimp?

200

Trees, bolts, and cams.

What are possible anchor points?

200

The maximum fall factor that can be achieved.

What is 2?

300

Silence (5.15d) in Flatanger Norway.

What is the hardest route ever climbed?

300

To climb a route using only your hands and feet. The rope is only used for protection and not for assistance while climbing.

What is Free Climbing?

300
Pushing out on a sideways hold.

What is a gaston?

300

An anchor that is fixed in one direction.

What is static equalization?

300

Do this with your arms and legs when you fall.

What is keep them slightly bent to absorb shock?

400

No protection. Death is possible even on a protected fall.

What is an X protection rating?

400

To lead a climb without falling or putting weight on the rope, regardless of the number of attempts.

What is a red point?

400

A bulge with no positive angle to grip.

What is a sloper?

400

Equalized, Angle, this, Non-Extending, Solid, and Timely are all essential parts of a good anchor.

What is Redundant?

400

If the climber takes a fall while 7 feet above his last protection and there is 42 feet of rope in the system, this will be the fall factor.

What is 1/3 or .33?

500

The three common types of rating systems, two for bouldering and one for technical climbing.

What are the Hueco, Font Scale, and YDS systems?

500

To lead a climb on the first attempt without any prior knowledge of the route.

What is an on sight?

500

Instead of stepping on a foothold with your big toe and your hips squared towards the wall, you turn your hips in and step with the outside edge of your foot on the foothold.

What is backstepping?

500

A 170 degree angle in an anchor will cause this percentage of the load to be placed on each anchor point.

What is 574%?

500

If the climber takes a fall while 9 feet above his last protection and there is 12 feet of rope in the system, this is the fall factor.

What is a ground fall? (or 1.5)

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