hair structure
Outermost layer
Cuticle
Measurement system and rules of color
Level system 1-10
Lasts one to three shampoos
Temporary
Recondition and equal porosity on damage hair
Conditioner filler
H202 oxiding agents
Hydrogen peroxide
Gives hair strength and elasticity
Cortex
Haircolor charts or swatches
Use to formulate and perform services identified by letters and numbers
Use as color filler to replace lost tonality before color service last three to eight shampoos
Semipermanent haircolor
Equalize porosity and deposits color molecules in one application
Color fillers
Oh 2.5 and 4.5 different forms
1.Clear developers make it easy to apply. 2.Cream bowl and brush
No scientific explanation role
Medulla
Hair that has lost its pigment
Gray hair
Acidic swells the hair strand’s cuticle and deposits color between the cuticle and cortex
Demipermanent
1 On the scalp oil, cream and some powder lighteners. 2. Off scalp overall blinding and retouch 3. Powder orginally intended for off scalp
Types of lighteners
3% used to deposit or when little or no lift desire
10 volume
Three types of hair texture
Fine, medium and coarse
Tone and intensity
Warm, cool, neutral, base, intensity
Changes exiting haircolor contained alkaline agent and mixed with developers
Permanent
Used for foil free, freehand painting techniques like balayage
Clay
6% standard volume two levels of lift
20 volume
Degree of porosity
Low cuticle tight, average cutlcle slightly raise and high over porous
Color theory
Primary, red blue yellow secondary green orange and violet. Complementary blue-orange, red-green and yellow-violet
Plant based dyes with limited shades some just stain the cuticle some can penetrate the cortex. Last four to six weeks 2. haircolor build up can interfere with other chemicals 3. Non oxidative that makes only a physical change
1.Natural-based haircolor 2:Metallic 3. Temporary
Boosters ,protinators or accelerator are powder presulfate salts added to powder lighteners to increase it’s lightening ability
Activactors
9% three levels while depositing color with permanent color. 12% up to four levels of lift standard high lift provides maximum lift in one service
1. 30 volume. 2. 40 volume