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100
What is a wave?
A movement of energy through a body of water.
100
What is the normal wave height?
2 to 5 meters high.
100
Name two natural landforms that help reduce beach erosion.
Sand dunes and groins.
100
TRAP
-100points.
100
What is a rip current?
A rush of water that flows rapidly back to see through a narrow opening.
200
How does a wave form?
When wind blows across the water's surface transmit their energy to the water.
200
How do waves change near the shore?
Near shore, wave height increases and wavelength decreases.
200
How do waves affect shorelines and beaches?
As waves come into shore, water washes up the beach at an angle, carrying sand grains. The water and sand then run straight back down the beach.
200
In what direction does a rip current pull a swimmer?
They carry a swimmer across the current parallel to the beach.
200
Give us the definition of sand dune.
Natural landform that protects beaches and reduce erosion.
300
Explain how weather affects a tsunami?
Since wind and water cause tsunamis, then weather plays an important role in how a tsunami is affected.
300
What approaches the shore at an angle?
Waves.
300
What stops longshore drifts from reducing beach erosions?
Groins.
300
Where are tsunamis more common found?
In the Pacific Ocean, often striking Alaska, Hawaii, and Japan.
300
What is the normal wavelength of a tsunami?
200 kilometers or more.
400
TRAP
-50points
400
How does a barrier beach protect the mainland from erosion by waves?
They protect beaches from erosion by being parallel to a shore.
400
BONUS
+150points
400
Are water particles affected by the surface waves?
No.
400
What causes waves to slow down in the shallow water near shore?
Friction with the ocean floor.
500
What is the highest part of a wave?
A crest.
500
When the wave energy founded, where does the water go?
The wave's energy moves but the water stays in one place.
500
What are long sand deposits also called?
They are also called barrier beaches.
500
BONUS
+200
500
TRAP
-200points
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