Water Properties
Water has unusually (high/low) heat capacity compared to other substances
What is High
The highest point of the wave
What is crest
When water rushes back to the sea, causing the beach to appear to grow
What is ebb tide
Wind, earthquakes, and landslides are known as ____________ forces because they start waves
What is Generating
What is decrease
Molecules of the same substance sticking to each other (i.e. two water molecules sticking together)
What is cohesion
The distance from one crest to one crest or one trough to one trough
What is wavelength
A steep wave generated as high tides move up some estuaries and rivers
What is tidal bore
These waves consist of rounded wave crests and troughs that are found away from the area where waves are generated by wind
What are swell waves
This phenomena is responsible for moving sand/sediment down the beach
What is Longshore Transport
As depth increases, water pressure __________
What is increases
1/2 of the wave height
What is amplitude
The time it takes to complete a full tidal cycle
What is 24 hours 50 minutes
The smallest wind generated waves
What are capillary waves
The total kinetic energy (measured in calories) of all the particles in a substance
What is heat
Water in this state of matter has little to no hydrogen bonds
What is gas
If you stand still and a wave crashes on you every 5 seconds, the wave's _____________ is 5 seconds.
What is period
This rare tidal pattern has only one high and one low tide per day
What is diurnal
The amount of open water wind can blow over to create waves
What is fetch
The area of the ocean in which sound waves can travel uninterrupted for thousands of kilometers
What is the Deep Sound Channel
These are the invisible bonds that hold water molecules together
What are hydrogen bonds
A wave has these two types of energy
This happens between ebb tide and flood tide
What is slack water
Waves are more easily produced in (shallow/deep) water
What is shallow
During deep water waves, water particles move in this circular motion
What is orbital motion