Chem Peels 101
What are chemical peels?
safe chemical solutions, target different skin concerns stimulating cell turnover, helps improve texture, tone, and appearance of the skin, aging, fine lines, acne, and hyperpigmentation
This ancient queen was known for taking milk baths?
Cleopatra
What are the three main categories of skin?
epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis
What acid is colorblind?
TCA
What percentages of AHA's, and BHA's can BASICs do?
AHA - 30%, BHA- 15%
This professional can perform deep peels?
physicians
What year did Thomas B. Fitzpatrick create the Fitzpatrick scale?
1975
Name the layers of the skin in order.
epidermis
- stratum corneum, stratum lucidum, stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum, stratum basale (germinativum)
dermis
- papillary layer, reticular layer
hypodermis
- adipose ( fat)
This type of peel(s) are layered.
BHA's, Specialty (Jessner, TCA)
What percentages of peels can MASTERs do?
AHA’s - 50%
BHA’s - 30%
TCA - 15%
Jessner
What scale helps determine skin type, what is is based on?
Fitzpatrick, sun exposure, genetics
European gypsies were the first to use this type of chemical peel?
phenol peel
What are the key components of the extracellular matrix?
collagen, elastic, hyaluronic acid, proteoglycans/glycoproteins
What is the smallest molecular size of AHA's?
glycolic
76.05 g/mol or 0.3 nm
What are good peels for scarring/texture?
Scarring/texture - TCA, Jessner
This category of peel is best for oily, acne prone skin?
BHA
What did the ancient Egyptians use to improve their skin? (name 3)
animal oils, salt, milk, alabaster (mineral)
These help repair and hydrate the skin?
proteoglycans and glycoproteins
What components make up a Jessner peel?
14% Lactic
14% Salicylic
14% Resorcinol (bark, plants)
What Fitz can Salicylic acid be used for?
Fitz 1-4
What is the main difference between an AHA and BHA chemically (-OH)?
AHA’s the -OH group bonds to the first carbon making is water-soluble
BHA’s the -OH group bonds to the second carbon making is oil soluble
These three scientist contributed to the advancement of chemical peel?
Ferdinad von Hebra, Paul Gerson Unna, Max Jessner
A client comes in (around 30 years old), Fitz 3, wants to work on her dry, dull skins, fine lines and wrinkles, texture, and pigmentation. What peels can you do and which should you avoid?
AHA's, don't have to worry about Fitz (always be cautious, and perform patch test)
This acid is derived from sugar beets, which acid is it?
betaine salicylate
What is the difference between pseudo-frost, frosting and blanching?
pseudo-frost - white, powdery residue, wipes away, acid crystals preciptate of skin
frosting - protein denaturation- breaks down keratin (protein found in the skin), temporary white ‘frosted’ appearance, within the epidermis
blanching - vasoconstriction, below the epidermis (out of scope)