Relaxer chemistry
Relaxers are extremely________________ and can literally dissolve or melt the hair if used incorrectly.
alkaline
What should be discussed during a chemical relaxer consultation?
medications, risks involved, confirm if relaxer is the best treatment, ask what client likes and dislikes about their hair,
Which type of chemical texturizing service is semi-permanent?
keratin treatment
What is the difference between base and no-base relaxers?
base relaxers require a separate application of base to the entire scalp while no-base is formulated with a base that melts at body temperature
What is a virgin relaxer application and how is it applied?
a client who has no relaxer in their hair, applied to midshaft first then ends and scalp.
How do chemical relaxers work?
they increase hairs pH to an alkaline state which opens the cuticle and allows the relaxer to reach the cortex where the restructuring takes place
What is a client intake form?
Client fills out, includes medication, previous services, client expectations, etc
This type of chemical texturizing combines a thio relaxer with a flat iron?
Japanese thermal straightening
Where should protective base cream always be applied whether you are using base or no-base relaxers?
to the hairline, nape and top of ears
What is a retouch application of chemical relaxers?
For clients who are previously relaxed, applied to new growth only
What is the average pH of a chemical relaxers?
above 13
What is C.C.C.A. and why should we inquire about this condition before performing a chemical relaxer?
pins and needles and scarring from alopecia, relaxer should not be performed
This type of relaxer is the most common and is also called a lye relaxer?
sodium hydroxide
What are the different strengths of relaxers?
Mild, regular and super
Which process that removes one of the bonded sulfur atoms in a disulfide bonds called?
lanthionization
Why would we ask a relaxer client about regularly drinking caffeine?
caffeine increases blood circulation which can lead to increased sensitivity
Name the different types of metal hydroxide relaxers?
sodium, potassium and lithium
What is used to keep the cape from coming into direct contact with the cape?
neck strips
How does thio neutralization differ from hydroxide neutralization?
thio neutralization involves oxidation
Why should we ask a relaxer client when the last time they shampooed was?
there should be at least 1 week between shampooing and relaxer service to decrease scalp sensitivity
To perm coarse hair the solution must have enough____________ions to break the required number of disulfide bonds.
hydrogen
What is a predisposition test and how is it conducted?
relaxer is applied behind the ear or inner elbow and left to sit 24-48 hours then checked for redness, rash or irritation
Why should you not use metal clips when working with chemical relaxers?
they could cause a chemical reaction
Why should we ask a relaxer client if they have ever had a keratin hair treatment?
keratin coats the hair cuticle which can block the application of the relaxer
Why would you choose a no-lye relaxer over a lye relaxer?
If the client has a sensitive scalp
Why should you decline a relaxer for a client who has a henna or metallic dye?
they can interfere with the relaxer or are incompatible
What is the most common ingredient in neutralizers?
hydrogen peroxide
Why should we ask a relaxer client if they use any natural oil treatments?
oils serve as a barrier that prevent relaxer absorption
Which type of relaxer uses reduction and oxidation to break the disulfide bonds and then reform them to a more relaxed hair texture?
Thio relaxer
How should the relaxer and neutralizer be rinsed from the hair?
thoroughly with warm water, rinse with cool water if scalp is irritated
Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called_________relaxers.
lye
What is a service record card?
filled out by the cosmetologist, a record of all services performed, timing, results, etc
Hair treated with a hydroxide relaxer should never be treated with__________________?
thio relaxer