pH
what measures the acidity and alkalinity of a substance by measuring the quantity of hydrogen ions its contains?
pH Scale
the size of the rod determines what?
the size of the curl
coarse hair with a strong, resistant cuticle layer needs the additional swelling and penetration... this is provided by what type of waving solution
higher PH
Alkaline waving solution
also called a straight set wrap
all the rods within the panel move in the same direction
basic perm wrap
this will leave a coating on the hair, that may cause uneven curls, severe discoloration or hair breakage
this is found in at home hair coloring products
Metallic salts
The Natural pH of hair is between?
4.5 and 5.5
what type of rod produce a tighter curl in the center, and a looser curl on either side?
also, most common perm rod
Concave rod
all permanent wave solutions contain a "reducing agent" what is it?
its a colorless liquid with a strong unpleasant odor
most common
"Thio" or Thioglycolic acid
base sections are off set from each other row by row, to prevent noticeable splits, and to blend the flow of the hair
Bricklay perm wrap
essential to a successful chemical service: to determine if the hair will react to the chemical service you want to check the condition, texture, density, porosity and growth direction which is what?
Hair Analysis
what is responsible for elasticity and incredible strength of the hair?
Side bonds
chemical waving is a two step process,
1 is wrapping the hair on the rod
2 is caused by the permanent waving solution and neutralizer
physical change and chemical change
these perms have a pH of 7.8 to 8.2
room temp
for porous and damaged hair
acid-balanced wave
for long hair, you double the rods... the upper half of the strand is wrapped around one rod and the lower half of the same strand is wrapped around a second rod...
also called double-rod technique
Piggyback
using a base section that is wider than the perm rod can create a what?
uneven curl pattern and undue tension on the hair
this can only be broken by chemicals and cannot be broken by heat or water.
the chemical and physical changes of this makes permanent waving, curl reforming and chemical hair relaxing possible
Disulfide bonds
End papers are absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping, the 3 most common are what?
Double flat wrap, Bookend wrap and single flat wrap
an Exothermic chemical reaction produces heat. exothermic waves create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the solution and speeds up the processing....exothermic waves have 3 components, what are they?
permanent waving solution, activator and neutralizer
if clients have: long hair on top and crown but short on back and sides, if clients only need volume and lift in certain areas, and clients who desire curl around the perimeter and smooth at the crown they would get what type of perm?
partial perm
ingredients, strength and pH of permanent wave solutions from different manufacturers may vary, you should always:
check manufacturers labels and directions
Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin & side bonds are what?
building blocks of protein
what determines the ability to hold a curl?
this is classified as normal or low
Elasticity
activated by an outside heat source
this type of wave will not process at room temperature
Endothermic wave
the weave technique is used for what?
this technique is used to blend between perm rods, used to create a smooth transition from the rolled areas into the unrolled areas like a partial perm
can be used in different wrapping patterns
always rinse for the suggested time by manufacturers and if you continue to smell perm rinse more. make sure you rinse around the nape really good... if you leave perm solution and then apply neutralizer what happens?
you lock in the perm solution, the client will continue to smell perm in their hair