Marking Patterns/Blocks
Can notches indicate sewing direction?
Yes
Where do we fold the dart bulk towards?
side seam
Why does laying your pattern on the grainline make a difference?
If you ignore the grainline your clothing might twist/sag/or refuse to sit right on the body no matter how perfectly you sew it
What tool is used to draw smooth curves when creating armholes and necklines?
French Curve
What do we call the amount of extra room added to a garment beyond the body's measurements?
Ease
Notch the outer legs, circle the apex, and punch apex with the awl
Are dart legs always the same length?
Yes
What is the straight grain?
runs parallel to the selvage, clothes cut along this grain hang smoothly and don't twist
What tool is used to transfer markings from one side of a pattern to another?
tracing wheel
What is the process of changing the location of a dart without changing the amount of fullness it controls?
Dart manipulation
What is the difference between a block and pattern?
Patterns have seam allowance
How do we find the midpoint?
use our 2x18 ruler to measure the dart leg opening and utilize half of that measurement
How could we identify the cross grain?
Tug, it will give slightly more stretch
When two pattern pieces are joined together, their corresponding markings must match at these locations, and what tool is used?
Notcher
What is the skirt pattern edge that is usually placed on the fold of the fabric and therefore does not require a seam allowance?
Center Front
When we are designing and manipulating patterns do we use our pattern or block?
Block
Define the apex
Highest point of the dart
How would we find the grainline in our muslin?
cut both ends and see what rips in one straight line, stretch length and width to see what has more stretch, look for selvage, use a pin to pick the straight grain out and pull it out lengthwise
How do we square up with our ruler?
Use the 2x18 and align the line so it matches and makes a clear 90 degree angle
What is the the name for the line at the bottom edge of a skirt, dress, or pant leg? What is the seam allowance and Why?
Hem 1 inch, to create a double fold clean hem with no raw edge showing
Add Grainline, circle apex, make sure apex is punched through with awl
If you manipulate a dart from two to one on the CF is the total front waist measurement changing?
No
45 degree, you get maximum stretch and drape
What can we use before we cut our patterns to ensure our COF, does not shift?
Pins
When a pattern is cut and opened to add fullness, this technique is called?
Slash and Spread