1
process that permanently rearranges curly hair into smoother straighter hair
what is chemical hair relaxing
perm wrap in which one end paper is folded over in half
what is a book end wrap (that im not allowed to do until i graduate)
perm sections; size, shape and direction vary based on wrapping patterns
what are panels
perm rods that have a smaller diameter inthe middle
what are concave rods
product that removes curl or wave, leaving hair smooth and straight
what is chemical relaxer
papers that control the hairs ends for perming
what are end wraps or end papers
adds wave or curl to the also can loosen curl
what is permanent waving
base control where the hair is wrapped at a 45 degree below base sections center so the rod is
what is off base placement
services that cause a chemical change that alters the natural wave pattern of hair
what are chemical texture services
permanent waves that curl only specific areas of the head
what is a partial perm
refers to the rods position in relation to its base section , determines the direction the hair is wrapped
what is base placement
rods that are equal in diameter the entire length of the rod
what is a straight rod
tool that is usually 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the rods full length
what is a loop rod
oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during relaxer services
what is base cream
the natural ph of the hair and scalp
what is 4.5 to 5.5
base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 90 degree angle or perpindicular to its base section
what is half off base section
application for hair that has received a chemical relaxer service before
what is a relaxer retouch
base control in which the hair is wrapped at 45 degree angle beyond perpindicular to its base section is
what is on base placement
perm wrap that uses only 1 end paper , placed over the top of the base panel
what is a single flat wrap
relaxers that do not require a protective base cream
what are no base relaxers
subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping
what are base sections
hair fibers are made mostly of this
what is keratin
bonds broken by water. reset when dry
what are hydrogen bonds
conditioners with an acidic ph that restore the hairs natural ph before the final neutralizing shampoo for hydroxide relaxers
what are normalizing lotions
best shampoo to use before starting a perm service
what is a clarifying shampoo
2 rods wrapped on the same strand of long hair
what is a piggyback wrap or a double rod wrap
bonds that cannot be broken by water
what are disulfide bonds
angle at which the rod is positioned on the head , also the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped
what is base direction
what does ph stand for
what is potential hydrogen
application that is used for hair that has not had a previous chemical relaxer service
what is virgin application
relaxers that require a separate application of a base cream before a relaxer application
what are base relaxers
hair is wrapped around the rods vertically until it fills the rods length. wrapped like a candy cane
what is the spiral wrap technique
base sections are off set from each other row by row to prevent noticable splits
what is a bricklay wrap
utilizes the spiral wrap technique that is used mostly for longer hair
what are spiral perms
aka cold waves, ph between 9.0 and 9.6, requires no heat, uses ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent
what are alkaline waves
a tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the rods entire length and is made of flexible foam
what is soft bender rods
aka chemical curl reformation service
what is soft curl permanent
perms with a 7.0 ph, require no added heat,process quicker, firmer curls than a true acid wave
what is an acid balanced wave
perm that uses an ingredient other than ATG as its primary reducing agent such as cysteamine or mercaptamine
what is thio free waves
contains a very strong alkali with a ph over 13, the hydroxide ion is the active ingredient
what are hydroxide relaxers
perms that use sulfates,sulfites and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate
what are low ph waves
perm wrap in which one end paper is placed over the hair and another is placed under the hairs base panel being wrapped
what is double flat wrap
semi permanent treatment that smooths curly and wavy hair textures and eliminates frizz for up to 12 weeks. aka brazilian keratin treatments
what is a keratin based smoothing treatment
perm in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers
what is croquignole wrap technique
measurement of a liquids thickness or thinness
what is viscosity
use reduction and oxidation to break the disulfide bonds and then reforms them to a more relaxed texture, uses the same ATG as perms but at a higher concentration(ph above 10)
what is thio relaxers
rods position in relation to its base section, determined by the angle the hair is wrapped
what is base control
ph between 4.5-7.0, requires heat to process, processes more slowly,not as firm of curl
what are true acid waves
ionic compounds formed by a metal(sodium,lithium or potassium)that is combined with hydrogen and oxygen
what is metal hydroxide relaxers
perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a hood dryer
what is a endothermic wave
used to break disulfide bonds and loosen curls. aka sodium hydroxide or caustic soda
what are lye relaxers
aka straight set wrap,wrapping pattern in which all rods in the panel are in the same, equal size, horizontal bases
what is a basic perm wrap
relies on the oxidation process to stop the action of the relaxer solution and rebuild the hair to its new form
what is thio neutralization
creates an chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution, speeds up processing
what is exothermic waves
active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms
what is ammonia thioglycolate or ATG
acid-alkali neutralization that deactivates the alkaline residues left in the hair by hydroxide relaxers, lowers the ph of the hair and scalp
what is hydroxide neutralization
perms with very little odor due to using an ingredient other than ammonia
what are ammonia free waves
main active ingredient in true acid balanced waving lotions
what is glyceryl monothioglycolate or GMTG
active ingredient in no lye based relaxer,
what is calcium hydroxide
process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair by removing a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and converts it into a lanthionine bond
what is lanthionization