Oceans
Oceans 2
Oceans 3
Waves
Waves 2
100
A wave in water deeper than half its length.
What is a deep water wave?
100
Simultaneous wind waves of many wavelengths forming a chaotic ocean surface.
What is sea?
100
The horizontal distance between two successive wave crests (or troughs) in a progressive wave.
What is wavelength?
100
A single wave crest much higher than usual, caused by constructive interference.
What is a rogue wave?
100
Disturbance caused by the movement of energy through a medium.
What is a wave?
200
A progressive wave in which particles of the medium move in closed circles.
What is an orbital wave?
200
A tiny wave with a wavelength of less than 1.73 centimeters, whose restoring force is surface tension; the first type of wave to form when the wind blows.
What is a capillary wave?
200
The subtraction of wave energy as waves interact, producing smaller waves.
What is destructive interference?
200
Breaking wave in which the upper section topples forward and away from the bottom, forming an air filled tube.
What is a plunging wave?
200
Vertical distance between a wave crest and the adjacent wave troughs.
What is wave height?
300
The addition of wave energy as waves interact, producing larger waves.
What is constructive interference?
300
Addition or subtraction of wave energy as waves interact.
What is interference?
300
The length of time the wind blows over the ocean surface, a factor in wind wave development.
What is wind duration?
300
A wave of moving energy in which the wave form moves in one direction along the surface (or junction) of the transmission medium (or media).
What is a progressive wave?
300
Slowing and bending of progressive waves in shallow water.
What is wave refraction?
400
The line or point of no wave action in a standing pattern.
What is a node?
400
The uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without a significant change in direction, a factor in wind wave development.
What is a fetch?
400
Are tsunami ever dangerous if encountered in the open sea? What happens when they reach shore?
Tsunamis are almost never dangerous if encountered in the open sea because it is away from the shore. When they reach the shore, though, the waves will become much more powerful and become a tsunami.
400
Define wave period. How would you measure wave frequency?
Wave period is the time it takes for successive wave crests to pass a fixed point. Frequency of a wave is measured by how many waves pass a particular point at a given amount of time.
400
What happens when a wind wave breaks? What factors affect the break?
When wind waves break they topple and crash back to the ocean. The factors that affect the break are when it runs into shallow water, or when two wave systems oppose and combine forces. When the slope, or steepness ratio, of a wave is too great, breaking is inevitable.
500
How is an ocean wave different from a wave in a spring or rope? How is it similar?
An ocean wave is different from a wave in a spring or rope because of the restoring force. They are similar because all are transverse waves that propagate energy in space and time.
500
Pendulum-like rocking of water in an enclosed area.
What is a seiche?
500
The valley between wave crests below the average water level in a progressive wave.
What are wave troughs?
500
What factors influence the growth of a wind wave? There are three.
The factors that influence the growth of a wind wave are wind speed, wind duration, and fetch.
500
What causes a tsunami?
Tsunamis are caused by rapid displacement of water.
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