Hair Structure
The pH of the hair and skin
(Acidic) 4.5-5.5
A 2 step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical and chemical change
Permanent waving
These permanent waves were developed in 1941 and need to be processed at room temperature due to the pH being 9.0-9.6
Alkaline or cold waves
This refers to the placement of the rod in relation to its base section
Base placement
This are thin absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding the hair on perm rods
End paper
Also called the Cohn's Elements these compounds are made of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen nitrogen and sulfur
Amino acids
This action involves either the addition of hydrogen or the removal of oxygen
Reduction Reaction
This type of permanent wave is the most commonly used in the salon today due to the pH being close to neutral
Acid balanced waves
This type of common permanent wave wrapped is when the hair is wound from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers
Croquignole perm wrap
These rods are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area
Straight rods
Relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges and are easily broken and reformed by the changes in pH
Salt Bonds
Commonly referred to as thio, this is the most common reducing agent in perm solution
Thioglycolic acid
These permanent waves require an additional oxidizing agent that must be added to the solution immediately before use. This action causes a rapid release of heat that increases the temperature if the solution which in turns shortens the processing time
Exothermic waves
When perming extra long hair use this types of wrapping method
Double-rod or piggyback wrap
The most common type of perm rod that has a smaller diameter in the center and increases to a larger diameter on the ends.
Concave rod
These proteins are coiled polypeptide chains that are made of long chains of amino acids linked together end to end like beads
Keratin proteins
This chemical referred to as ATG is added to most permanent wave solutions as an alkalizing agent because acids do not swell the hair nor penetrate into the cortex.
Ammonium thioglycolate
This permanent waves uses sulfates and bisulfites as an alternative to ATG
Low pH waves
This permanent wave wrap is similar to the actual technique of bricklaying; base section are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to bend the flow of the hair
Bricklay permanent wave wrap
These rods are usually 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length. These soft foam rods have a flexible wire inside that permits them to be bent into any shape
Soft bender rods
Strong chemical side bonds that are formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together. The strongest of the 3 side bonds which are not affected by water and can only be broke and reformed by the use of a strong chemical
Disulfide bonds
This is the second factor in the overall strength of the permanent waving solution and should correspond to the resistance, strength and porosity of the cuticle layer of the hair
Degree of alkalinity of the solution
GMTG is the main active ingredient and reducing agent in these two types of permanent waves
True acid and acid balanced
For this type of placement, the hair is wrapped 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section and may result in greater volume at the scalp area
On base placement
Used for extra long hair, this rod is also known as the circle rod
Loop rod