Regulations
Who is responsible for ensuring the safety of our nation's cosmetics (skin care and make up)?
DOUBLE JEOPARDY: What do they regulate? (3)
Food & Drug Administration (FDA)
Safety, Labeling, and Claims
What's the difference between unscented and fragrance free?
Unscented - formulated to have no smell (additional chemicals added to mask/neutralize an odor)
Fragrance Free - no additional ingredients have been added to the product for a scent (lavender)
What is derived from the ancient practice of using natural plant essences to promote health and well being?
DOUBLE JEOPARDY: What nerves does this practice appeal to?
Aromatherapy
Olfactory Nerves (roof of nasal cavity)
Water, Emollients, Surfactants, Delivery Systems,
Preservatives, Fragrances, Color Agents,
Thickeners, pH Adjusters, and Solvents
Every ingredient used in the cosmetic industry has a purpose and are divided into two main categories, list and describe them.
(1) Functional - does not affect the appearance of the skin but act as vehicles that allow products to spread
(2) Performance - causes actual change in the appearance of the skin and also known as active agents & active ingredients
Name the most important laws pertaining to cosmetics marketed in the USA. (100 points each)
DOUBLE JEOPARDY: Define each law. (100 points)
FD&C Act: defines difference between cosmetics and drugs [Food Drug & Cosmetic Act]
FPLA: Product labeling on packaging, safety, and preventing adverse reactions [Fair Packaging & Labeling Act]
Define the difference between natural and synthetic ingredients.
Products from nature can have powerful skin benefits however most effective ingredients are synthetic. Synthetic products won't have pesticides or ecological footprint, but may have other harmful chemicals.
Example: Rooster Combs (from nature but synthetic version is more stable and effective)
The markup for is ___.
DOUBLE JEOPARDY: How do we determine actual product cost to break down the purchase price?
100%
DOUBLE JEOPARDY: Monthly > Weekly > Daily
Functional ingredient that prevents bacteria, fungi, mold, and other microorganisms from living in a product?
EXTRA 400 POINTS: List four types
Preservatives
Traditional- formaldehyde-releasers and parabens
Organic Acids- natural alternatives combined in a product to provide longer shelf life
Antioxidants- reduce rate of oxidation to extend shelf life
Chelating Agents- boost efficacy of preservatives by breaking down cell walls of bacteria (sodiums)
Used as a functional ingredient to enhance visual appeal and performance ingredient to to add color to make up products?
EXTRA 200 POINTS: List two types
Color Agents
Certified- synthesized from raw material like organic dyes, lakes, or pigments (FDA batch certification)
Noncertified- [aka artificial colors] organic compounds from minerals, plants, and animal sources (not FDA, but must comply FD&C)
As a esthetician, what can prevent an adverse reaction and how do we handle them? (Think in the workplace)
Prevention: Knowing your products and patch test
Handling: Remove product, rinse skin with cold water, and apply cold compress until skin is calm. If serious, seek medical attention. ALWAYS DOCUMENT IT!
What's the difference between cruelty free and vegan products?
Cruelty free - not tested on animals at any stage of the production process; nor are the ingredients
Vegan - should not contain any animal ingredients or animal by products (honey, beeswax, lanolin, collagen)
Fragrances, some preservatives, and chemical sunscreen ingredients
Functional ingredients that are also called buffering agents and are used to stabilize products and prevent changes in pH.
DOUBLE JEOPARDY: How do we apply these as estheticians?
pH Adjusters
Balancing pH with toners and astringents, neutralizing solutions, and selecting the right products
A functional ingredient that is used to reduce the tension between the skin and the product, increase the ability of cosmetic products to spread, and also create stable mixtures.
Extra 200 points: List two types
Surfactants
Detergents- mainly in cleansers to remove oil, dirt, debris, make up from surface
Emulsifiers- cause oil and water to mix by surrounding particles and allowing them to spread evenly
What are INCI names?
DOUBLE JEOPARDY! Provide the acronym.
List of ingredients using standardized INCI names for each ingredient that are allocated by the ACA nd PCPC (international)
DOUBLE JEOPARDY: International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient
What's the difference between all-natural and organic?
All Natural - derived from natural sources; but all life forms are made of chemical
Organic - natural sourced ingredients that are grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals (USDA and National Organic Program)
Products that do not contain any water are called _____.
anhydrous
Oil-based serums, silicone serums, and petrolatum-based products (lip balms)
What are the two types of sunscreen protection and how do they work?
Chemical- carbon based compounds that absorb UV rays in the skin, changing them to heat, then releasing them from the skin (may cause irritation and increase hyperpigmentation)
Physical- (mineral sunscreen) without carbon components and reflect/scatter UV radiation
List and describe the two main types of exfoliation.
Mechanical- physically polishing away dead skin with gentle massage and products (nuts, beeswax, seeds, jojoba beads, rice, sugar, salts)
Chemical- agents that dissolve dead skin cells by breaking down intercellular matrix (enzymes, AHA, BHA, retinols, grommage)
Companies and individuals who market cosmetics must have an understanding about misbranding or rebranding. Why is that?
Liabilities!
List three terms that describe ingredients or products that may be less likely to cause allergic reactions.
Hypoallergenic, Dermatologist Tested, and Non-irritating
What are the three steps to successful retailing?
1. Provide Product Education
2. Present Precise Instructions
3. Practice Professional Follow Up
A functional ingredient that helps place, spread, and keep other substances on the skin?
EXTRA 500 POINTS: List five types
Emollients
DOUBLE JEOPARDY:
Oils- from mineral or botanical sources
Silicones- chemically combined groups of oils
Fatty acids- lubricants from plant oils and animal fats
Fatty alcohols- exposed to oxygen, not drying, wax like consistency
Fatty esters- combo of fatty acids and fatty alcohol (-ates)
A functional ingredient that is used to distribute a product's key performance ingredients into the skin once it's applied.
EXTRA 300 POINTS: List three types
Delivery Systems
Vehicles - carries bases (emollients, water, silicone)
Liposomes - microscopic hollow, fluid like spheres filled with performance ingredients
Polymers - chemical compounds that release small molecules on to skin at controlled rate