Waves
What is the first step in wave formation?
Wind blowing over ocean
Main cause of tides.
Pull of the moon's gravity.
Series of waves
Tsunami
Bonus: Name one thing that causes a tsunami
When water takes the path of least resistance from the shore back out to sea.
Rip current
Bonus: Name a characteristics/signs of a rip current.
The distance of ocean over which wind blows
fetch
Neap tides happen when the Moon, Earth, and Sun are _______ to each other.
Perpendicular.
Bonus: What phases of the moon?
Shallow water wave that created is due to rapid tide change
What was the name of the surf spot that Jay Moriarty wanted to surf?
Maverick's
Waves that break and create a barrel.
Plunging Breakers
When there is a dramatic difference between high tide and low tide.
Spring Tide
One-time "monster" wave
Rogue wave
Name three characteristics of rip currents.
Sandy, churned up water
A break in the pattern of breaking waves
Dark water in a sandbar (=deep water)
Debris or dirt floating seaward
Vocabulary word for the "bottom of the wave"
Trough
First and third quarter moons create this type of tides.
Neap Tide
True/False: a tsunami is a big wave caused by a displacement of water. (ex: earthquake, explosion, landslide, etc)
False.
Bonus question: If a tsunami is not one big wave, then what is it? (what was the most important thing about tsunamis that I said you should remember)
Waves that form when the seafloor/beach has a steep slope.
Surging Breakers
Bonus: Name a beach on O'ahu that has this type of wave.
What moon phases are "in line" with the sun and earth?
Full Moon and New Moon
Bonus: what tide pattern is created during these phases?
Rogue waves are formed by this physics principle.
Superposition
Waves break as they get closer to shore due to ______ with the seafloor.
friction