Footwork Fandom
To make use of friction on the sole of the climbing shoe in the absence of any useful footholds.
What is Smearing?
A crack that is wider than a hand or foot but too narrow for a climber to chimney (fit the whole body) in.
What is an Off-Width?
To swing sideways out from the rock due to being off balance. Often occurs with a lie-back maneuver.
What is a Barn Door?
Metal loop (usually aluminum) with a spring-loaded gate on one side used for connecting various parts of a climbing system. May be oval, pear- or D-shaped.
Carbonate of magnesium used to keep a climber's hands dry for better grip.
What is Chalk?
Stepping on a hold in such a way that the outside edge (little toe side) of a shoe touches the rock, while the hips are turned to the side in such a way that the outside of a hip faces into the rock.
What is Back Stepping?
Any piece of climbing protection that does not have moving parts. Examples include chocks, stoppers, nuts or any other wedge-shaped pieces that fit into cracks, as well as hexentrics and tricams that are rotated to fit tightly into cracks and holes.
What is Passive Protection?
An inside corner in which a climber can use counter-pressure on each side to climb it. Also referred to as an "open book".
What is a Dihedral?
The first popular belay device with an auto-locking mechanism to catch a climber's fall. Made by Petzl.
What is the Grigri?
A climbing move in which counter-pressure is applied to the underside of a rock flake or slab by pulling up on it, while pushing down on the feet.
What is an Undercling?
A technique used to keep the feet on when climbing on overhangs. One foot is placed on a foothold and the other foot is placed behind the foothold in a toe hook position, allowing the climber to squeeze between their feet.
What is a Bicycle?
A rock cleft with mostly parallel vertical sides, and large enough to fit the climber's body into. To climb such a structure, the climber often uses their head, back, and feet to apply pressure on the opposing faces of the vertical walls
What is a Chimney?
A climbing move in which downward pressure is applied with the hands to a ledge, lifting the body high enough to get the feet on that same ledge. Usually used when no handholds are available.
What is a Mantel?
The distance between a climber and his or her last piece of protection.
What is a Runout?
An entirely leg-supported resting position during climbing that does not require hands on the rock.
What is a No-Hands Rest?
A combination of a toe hook and heel hook. It involves using opposing pressure from the toes and heel between two holds to hold the body on the wall.
Describes a clean crack with perfectly parallel sides, usually in an otherwise blank face.
What is a Splitter?
A dynamic movement that involves a sink and stand; often includes a stabbing motion with the hand so that the hold is grabbed at the apex of the movement.
What is a Deadpoint?
A mistake that can be made while lead climbing, whereby the rope is clipped into a quickdraw such that the leader's end runs underneath the quickdraw as opposed to over the top of it. If the leader falls, the rope may fold directly over the gate, causing it to open and release the rope from the carabiner.
What is Backclipping?
A homemade climbing wall, typically with plywood panels clearly in view.
What is a Woodie?
A technique where one foot pivots on a hold 180 degrees to get the body twisted towards the other leg. It can give a longer reach as the body and shoulders twist towards a hold.
What is a drop knee?
A series of protection placements that pop out in sequence when the leader falls. Often coincides with a screamer.
What is a Zipper?
A start move where the climber controls one hand and has to jump into the second hand from the ground.
What is a French Start?
A sports climbing technique to get back onto the wall after falling. Rather than lowering to the ground, the climber pulls on the rope, un-weights, and allows the belayer to take the slack quickly.
What is Boinking?
The ability of a climber to grip a hold on first contact from a dynamic move.
What is Contact Strength?