Haircolor Theory & Formulation
Which characteristic determines how much haircolor to apply for proper coverage?
density
Using an alkaline shampoo will __________.
strip color
When a perm is processed correctly, it breaks and rebuilds how much of the hair’s disulfide bonds?
50 percent
All of the following perm rods have a uniform diameter EXCEPT:
concave rods
Hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair by removing one of the bonded sulfur atoms in a disulfide bond. What is the name of this process?
lanthionization
A professional perm consultation should do all of the following EXCEPT:
Have the client sign an agreement to come in for follow-up texture services essential to maintaining the style.
Which item prevents direct contact between the client and the chemical cape?
neck strips
What is the purpose of toners?
to remove unwanted undertones caused by pre-lightening
To increase lightening ability, add __________ to powder lightener.
persulfate salts
The process that stops the action of permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair into its new form is called _____.
thio neutralization
Which of the following describes a proper technique for winding hair on perm rods?
Place one end paper under the base panel and one above the base panel so that the papers extend past the ends of the hair.
Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called _____.
lye relaxers
Which hair type will take the longest to process?
coarse-textured with low porosity
When applying demipermanent haircolor, which of the following steps comes first?
Perform hair and scalp analysis on the client’s hair.
What do cosmetologists use to identify the degree of darkness or lightness of natural and artificial hair color?
level system
Stylists work in a horseshoe pattern when performing a __________.
balayage
To perm coarse hair, the solution must have enough __________ ions to break the required number of disulfide bonds.
hydrogen
What is the proper technique for unwinding test curls to check for proper development?
Unwind the curl two or three turns.
When using a virgin relaxer, apply the relaxer to the __________.
midshaft first and then the ends and scalp
Under which of the following conditions can a texture service be performed?
A strand analysis indicates the hair has low porosity and high elasticity.
A client whose current haircolor has faded wants to try something new but does not want the color to be too bold. Unsure about color, the client wants to see several options. The client also wants to try the haircolor long enough to see if they like it before making a long-term commitment. What type of haircolor should the stylist recommend?
demipermanent
Which of the following is one of the five fundamental questions stylists must ask and answer when formulating a haircolor?
What is the level and tone of the client’s previous haircolor?
A strand test for lightener indicates the hair strand is too light. What should the stylist do to achieve the desired haircolor?
decrease the lightening mixture’s strength and processing time
Hair that has too many broken disulfide bonds and will not hold a firm curl is considered _____.
overprocessed
What should the cosmetologist instruct clients to do if perm solution drips into the eyes?
Flush the eyes thoroughly with cool water.
How does thio neutralization differ from hydroxide neutralization?
The neutralization of thio relaxers involves oxidation.
All of the following occur during the consultation for chemical relaxer EXCEPT:
performing a metallic salts test
What is the first step in neutralizing hair that has a green cast?
Remove mineral buildup.
When coloring salt-and-pepper hair to a darker level, stylists should __________.
formulate one to two levels higher than the natural level
Clients who want to add highlights to curly or coiled hair should avoid which of the following?
cap highlighting
Which of the following perm types is processed without a heat source?
alkaline waves
A client has thick hair that extends below the shoulders. The client wants to have uniform curls and volume. Which technique should the cosmetologist choose to meet the client's request while also minimizing stress and tension on the client’s hair?
a spiral wrap with half off-base placement
How does a relaxer retouch differ from the application of a virgin relaxer?
A relaxer retouch is used only on new hair growth.
“Gunmetal” gray hair is a sign that the hair is highly susceptible to __________.
breaking
Before performing a coloring service with an aniline derivative product, the client must have _____.
a patch test
The standard volume of hydrogen peroxide is __________ volume, which provides __________ level(s) of lift.
20, two
When adding natural highlights to brunette hair, what is the maximum number of levels the highlighted pieces should be lightened above the balance of the hair?
two
The active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves is _____.
ammonium thioglycolate
Which service uses a thio-based chemical process and is recommended for loosening hair texture that is extremely curly into a larger curl pattern?
soft curl permanent
Hair that is treated with hydroxide relaxers should not be treated with _____.
thio relaxers
All of the following are reasons to study chemical texture services EXCEPT:
Salons require cosmetologists who perform haircolor services to also perform texture services as a condition of employment.
Coloring products that have a coating action on the hair and are removed by shampooing are _____.
temporary colors
A client has hair that is 40 percent gray. If the stylist uses permanent color and the desired level is 8, what is the standard formulation?
two parts level 10 and one part level 8
A client’s lightening service took the maximum amount of processing time recommended by the product’s manufacturer. What is the most likely reason for the additional processing time?
The client had dark, coarse, long, straight hair.
How do alkaline perms differ from acid perms?
Alkaline perms have a higher pH.
What is the proper placement of bands on perm rods?
on the top
A higher frequency of curl reversion occurs in relaxers that use which of the following active ingredients?
ammonium sulfite
A strand test shows damage to the hair. Under which condition can haircolor be performed?
none: hair that is damaged cannot be treated with haircolor
Which of the following accurately describes a step in the process of mixing and applying haircolor?
Use an applicator bottle to apply products with thinner viscosity.
Which statement describes ammonia?
It is an alkaline agent that raises the pH of hair colorant and can change the hair’s texture and curl pattern.
To lighten hair to four or more levels, it must be __________.
pre-lightened and then toned
A hair analysis indicates the client has non-porous hair. Which perm type should the cosmetologist recommend?
alkaline/cold wave
To what areas should protective cream be applied when performing a perm?
around the hairline, the nape of the neck, and both ears
How do chemical hair relaxers work?
They increase the hair’s pH balance to an alkaline state, which raises the cuticle layer and allows the relaxer to reach the cortex, where restructuring takes place.
All of the following are haircoloring safety precautions EXCEPT:
Brush the client’s hair to distribute its natural oils uniformly.
A client wants to restore blonde hair to its natural color, which is several levels darker than the current haircolor. Which of the following should the stylist do?
Place haircolor swatches on the client’s existing blond hair to visibly demonstrate the difference in level and color, because it is common for clients to decide their requested color is too dark.
Demipermanent colors are also known as _____.
no-lift, deposit-only colors
What coloring process lifts and deposits color in one application?
single-process haircoloring
What do the most common neutralizers contain?
hydrogen peroxide
Which of the following item(s) prevents fishhooks?
end papers
A client wants to straighten coarse hair. The client mentions that their hair often seems frizzy and is concerned that if their hair loses all its curl it might look even frizzier. The client also seems hesitant to make a permanent change. Which service should the cosmetologist recommend?
keratin treatment
During a haircolor consultation, all of the following practices are recommended EXCEPT:
Use terms clients might use to describe their own hair, such as frizzy and roots, to fully understand their needs.
All of the following factors are reasons to study haircoloring EXCEPT:
Haircolor services generate more profit for stylists than any other service.
When naming haircolor products, manufacturers __________.
can use the same letter to represent different colors
For a color melt, apply haircolor in __________ or __________ subsections.
horizontal, zigzag
What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions?
glyceryl monothioglycolate
Cosmetologists should recommend that clients take which of the following steps to preserve moisture after a soft curl perm?
wearing a processing cap while sleeping
_____ combines the use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing.
Japanese thermal straightening
What is the most critical part of a color service?
haircolor consultation
A patch test is generally conducted behind the ear or _____.
inside the elbow
As part of their composition, all permanent haircolor products and lighteners contain both a developer and _____.
an alkalizing agent
The process in which the hair is pre-lightened and then toned is known as _____.
double-process application
When does the majority of the processing for permanent waving occur?
within 5 to 10 minutes
When wrapping hair for a perm, which pattern provides the greatest flexibility for directional flow?
bricklay
Which of the following practices helps ensure a safe outcome when performing chemical texture services?
Rinse the relaxer and neutralizer from the hair using warm water.
Prior to conducting a consultation for chemical relaxer services, which document should clients fill out and cosmetologists review so they can discuss any items of note?
client intake form
You should never apply haircolor to a client if the scalp has any obvious signs of _____.
abrasions
A client wants the hair to look like the client has been to the beach. To give the client haircolor that looks lighter and brighter, the stylist should use colors that have __________ tones, because they __________.
warm, reflect more light
Which technique results in strands of hair that are colored darker than the natural color?
lowlighting
What is the active ingredient in acid waves?
glycerol monothioglycolate (GMTG)
When using perm rods, which placement minimizes the amount of stress and level of tension on the hair?
perpendicular to the base
Which hydroxide relaxer does not require the application of a protective base?
no-base relaxer
Which of the following conditions would be cause for a cosmetologist to decline relaxer services?
The client has a pins-and-needles sensation on the scalp, and the hair is thinning.
Which of the following haircolor types works well to tone accent pieces?
semipermanent haircolors
Which of the following color pairs create a tertiary color?
blue and violet
What is the term for a chemical compound that uses oxidation to disperse and decolorize the hair’s natural pigment?
lightener
Waves that are activated from an outside heat source, such as a conventional hooded blowdryer, are _____ waves.
endothermic
Before permanent wave service, what is one of the reasons cosmetologists perform test curls?
to determine if a different rod size is needed
When using relaxer products, why should the cosmetologist avoid using metal clips?
They could cause a chemical reaction when used with a relaxer.
A client who is considering a chemical relaxer service frequently consumes highly caffeinated beverages. Why does this matter?
Caffeine increases blood circulation, which can lead to faster irritation caused by the use of chemical relaxers.
Haircoloring products that change color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air contain _____.
metallic salts
Which type of haircolor uses an alkalizing agent to lighten and deposit color simultaneously?
permanent
In a single treatment, what is the maximum number of levels healthy hair can be lightened before risking damage?
four
Which of the following is an indication of overprocessed hair?
Hair is curlier at the scalp and straighter at the ends.
When dividing hair into base sections for perm wraps, how many rods are used in each section and what factors determine the size of each section?
one rod; length and width of the rod
Which statement describes no-lye relaxers?
Because no-lye relaxers have a lower pH, they are suitable for clients who have scalp sensitivities.
Which question, when asked using the phrasing shown here, would give stylists the most information about a client’s needs?
How do you typically style your hair during the week?
To freshen up dull, faded hair between touch-up services, apply a demipermanent color that is in the same tonal family and __________ than the original color formulation.
one to two levels lighter