RELAXER
How do chemical hair relaxers work
They increase the hair’s pH balance to an alkaline state, which raises the cuticle layer and allows the relaxer to reach the cortex, where restructuring takes place.
A higher frequency of curl reversion occurs in relaxers that use which of the following active ingredients?
ammonium sulfite
Hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair by removing one of the bonded sulfur atoms in a disulfide bond. What is the name of this process?
lanthionization
How does thio neutralization differ from hydroxide neutralization?
The neutralization of thio relaxers involves oxidation.
A client wants to straighten coarse hair. The client mentions that their hair often seems frizzy and is concerned that if their hair loses all its curl it might look even frizzier. The client also seems hesitant to make a permanent change. Which service should the cosmetologist recommend?
keratin treatment
When using relaxer products, why should the cosmetologist avoid using metal clips?
They could cause a chemical reaction when used with a relaxer.
Which item prevents direct contact between the client and the chemical cape?
neck strips
A client who is considering a chemical relaxer service frequently consumes highly caffeinated beverages. Why does this matter?
Caffeine increases blood circulation, which can lead to faster irritation caused by the use of chemical relaxers.
Which conditions would be cause for a cosmetologist to decline relaxer services?
The client has a pins-and-needles sensation on the scalp, and the hair is thinning.
Prior to conducting a consultation for chemical relaxer services, which document should clients fill out and cosmetologists review so they can discuss any items of note?
client intake form
How does a relaxer retouch differ from the application of a virgin relaxer?
A relaxer retouch is used only on new hair growth
When using a virgin relaxer, apply the relaxer to the __________.
midshaft first and then the ends and scalp
A hair analysis indicates the client has non-porous hair. Which perm type should the cosmetologist recommend?
alkaline/cold wave
What is the active ingredient in acid waves?
glycerol monothioglycolate (GMTG)
How do alkaline perms differ from acid perms?
Alkaline perms have a higher pH.
When does the majority of the processing for permanent waving occur?
within 5 to 10 minutes
What is an indication of overprocessed hair?
Hair is curlier at the scalp and straighter at the ends.
To perm coarse hair, the solution must have enough __________ ions to break the required number of disulfide bonds.
hydrogen
When a perm is processed correctly, it breaks and rebuilds how much of the hair’s disulfide bonds?
50 percent
When using perm rods, which placement minimizes the amount of stress and level of tension on the hair?
perpendicular to the base
What item(s) prevents fishhooks?
end papers
When dividing hair into base sections for perm wraps, how many rods are used in each section and what factors determine the size of each section?
one rod; length and width of the rod
Which service uses a thio-based chemical process and is recommended for loosening hair texture that is extremely curly into a larger curl pattern?
soft curl permanent
When wrapping hair for a perm, which pattern provides the greatest flexibility for directional flow?
bricklay
A client has thick hair that extends below the shoulders. The client wants to have uniform curls and volume. Which technique should the cosmetologist choose to meet the client's request while also minimizing stress and tension on the client’s hair?
a spiral wrap with half off-base placement
What is the proper placement of bands on perm rods?
on the top
Before permanent wave service, what is one of the reasons cosmetologists perform test curls?
to determine if a different rod size is needed
What should the cosmetologist instruct clients to do if perm solution drips into the eyes?
Flush the eyes thoroughly with cool water.
To what areas should protective cream be applied when performing a perm?
around the hairline, the nape of the neck, and both ears
Cosmetologists should recommend that clients take which of the following steps to preserve moisture after a soft curl perm?
wearing a processing cap while sleeping
What is the proper technique for unwinding test curls to check for proper development?
Unwind the curl two or three turns
The active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves is _____.
ammonium thioglycolate
What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions?
glyceryl monothioglycolate
Waves that are activated from an outside heat source, such as a conventional hooded blowdryer, are _____ waves.
endothermic
Hair that has too many broken disulfide bonds and will not hold a firm curl is considered _____.
overprocessed
The process that stops the action of permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair into its new form is called _____.
thio neutralization
What do the most common neutralizers contain?
hydrogen peroxide
_____ combines the use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing.
Japanese thermal straightening
Hair that is treated with hydroxide relaxers should not be treated with _____.
thio relaxers
Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called _____
lye relaxers
Which hydroxide relaxer does not require the application of a protective base?
no-base relaxer