Scoring
How is the running order for finals determined?
finals start lists will be the reverse of the qualification results. Ex. The climber who placed 13th in Qualis will run first in finals.
How many climbs do you have in qualifiers?
2
What is the difference between a top when you are leading vs. top roping?
For top rope you need to control the top with one hand. For lead you need to clip the final draw.
How many climbers advance to nationals?
The top 6 plus extra spots.
How do you make a technical? What is an example?
Inform your judge you would like to call a technical. If you are on the wall you must call a technical immediately, and not continue climbing or it won’t count. Examples include a spinning/broken hold, collision with another climber, or a timing system failure. Note that issues with clothing or hair, twisted ankles, bleeding, etc. are NOT technicals.
How many climbers advance to divisionals finals?
13 climbers plus any extra advancement spots. (Foreign nationals, prequalified)
Describe flash format?
-Climbers can walk watch their competitors climb.
-Prior to the round, beta videos will be sent out to all competitors.
-There is no isolation, rather there is a warm up zone. -You have a minimum of 50 minutes before you climb, -There isn't a set time you start, but you are given a "no earlier than" time
How do you get awarded a plus?
A plus means use of a hold in the correct order according to the topo. This means that even if a hold is technically higher on the route, you may not be awarded the plus if it is not used in the correct order
What is the difference between red and black tape?
red tape: all artificial Holds and Structures beyond the red tape are out of bounds, but not the red tape itself. Ex. aretes and natural features are on.
black tape: the area beyond the black tape is out of bounds, but not the black tape itself.
how long is the appeal window for Qualis?
20 minutes
Which holds are considered on the route topo?
Only holds the judges/setters have decided will be used by your hands.
How much time do you have on each climb during Qualis? During finals?
5 for Qualis. 6 for finals
What is the definition of control?
a competitor has made use of an object/structure to achieve or change a stable body position.
What happens if you climb past your clip?
scoring of a competitor's attempt will be paused at the last hold marked on the Topo from which the Chief Routesetter deems it possible to clip any unclipped Protection Point.
How long is the appeal window for finals?
10 minutes
Ricky Bobby and Timmy both climbed to the same hold and fell each while moving upwards. Ricky Bobby was not awarded the plus while Timmy was. What could explain this scoring discrepancy?
Ricky Bobby went to a hold that was not in sequence
What is preparation period? What happens if you go over?
Preparation period is a 40 second period that you have start climbing. If you do not get on the wall within that time you will be reminded by the judge and be at risk for a yellow card.
Name at least three situations in which the judge can call a climber down from the wall.
A skipped clip, the competitor is bleeding, the competitor stepped on a bolt. Z- clips will not be called down, but competitors will be alerted by their belayer and they must fix it or their scoring is paused.
What is a yellow card? Name 3 possible examples of a scenario where an athlete might receive a yellow card.
A yellow card is given for infringements committed in, or into, the Competition Area:
unsporting behavior of a relatively minor nature; or
use of obscene or abusive language or behavior of a relatively mild nature; or
declaring a perceived rules violations directly to the accused violator, except:
A) to prevent injury due to a serious safety hazard; or
B) in their capacity as an official or judge; or
C) a coach to a competitor on their team or a legal guardian to their child, except where
and when otherwise disallowed by the rules. (e.g., a coach can address a perceived rules violation to their competitor, but not while such communication is restricted by the format rules.)
b) regarding instructions from any USA Climbing Official appointed to the competition:
undue delay in returning to the Isolation Zone/Warm-up Area following the instruction of a Head Judging Official; or undue delay in leaving the Call Zone and entering the Competition Zone when instructed to do so; or
iii) failure to start in accordance with a Head Judging Official’s instruction; or
regarding equipment and clothing:
i) non-compliance with the rules and regulations governing equipment and clothing; or
ii) non-compliance with the requirement to wear the bib provided by the Event Organizer; or
ii) the use of a laser pointer in the Competition Area or unsafe use of a laser pointer anywhere. (Laser pointers with an output power less than 5mW and a non-lockingmomentary contact on/off switch may be used in the Isolation/Warm-Up Zones if used in a safe manner.)
What happens if you call a technical and it is granted?
the competitor shall be escorted to a separate Transit Zone with access to warm-up facilities (secondary iso) to await the determination of the Technical Incident and for the duration of any subsequent recuperation period. The competitor shall not be permitted to communicate with any person other than USA Climbing Officials and the Event Organizer’s staff during this period.
The rest time awarded to the climber will be one (1) minute for each handhold used prior to the Technical Incident, with a maximum of twenty (20) minutes; and schedule the repeat attempt following the agreed recuperation period. All competitors yet to climb shall be informed about this decision
What is the formula for ropes scoring?
The ranking will be calculated in ascending order of the Geometric Points awarded to each competitor (i.e., lower Geometric Points is better),
Geometric Points are determined by calculating the geometric mean of the Ranking points for each route, as shown in the following formulas:
GP = √(P1 * P2) if there are two (2) routes.
GP = 3rd√(P1 * P2 * P3) if there are three (3) routes.
What happens if you use a volume that is on another route? What happens if you use a clip from another route?
If there is no tape, you can use volumes you can reach.
In the instance of two Lead routes being close enough in proximity that a competitor mistakenly clips a Protection Point on the wrong route, the Climbing Judge shall immediately instruct the competitor to correct the clip. Once the incorrect clip is un-clipped, the competitor may continue their attempt on their route.
However during route preview you should be able to see the correct clipping line.
Who has the most authority at championship events? Specific name(s) and title(s) please.
The jury president. Meridith Buehner
What is the minimum height and width for a rope climb? (Correct answer is within 5 feet)
40 ft x 10ft
Dylan notices that a competitor of hers is stepping on bolts as she climbs. However, she does not report this to the judges until the girl is done climbing, and the appeal window has opened. Will this appeal be counted? Why or why not?
No. Offensive appeals (those done against other competitors) must be done before the next climber starts or they will not be counted.