Measuring
Blazer Alterations
Pants Alterations
DS
Areas of Influence
Situational
100

These measurements are not doubled on dress pants.

What is the bottom cuff, length and knee-to-bottom cuff? 

100

The adjustment to a sleeve length that looks great but the customer is getting 1.5" added to his shoulder width. 

What is shortening sleeves -.75" ?

100

The alteration(s) that happens when a customer's calves are too tight in his dress pants. 

What is adding to the Knee and Bottom Cuff? 

100

These areas are not doubled on a Dress Shirt. 

What is the Neck, Wrist, Sleeve Length, Shoulder, and Length?

100

This measurement is 50% influenced by half the amount applied to the shoulder. 

What is Sleeve Length? 

100

The customer wants an OTR Tuxedo Shirt but needs it in less than two weeks and it is out of stock. 

What is Tailoring French Cuffs onto a Springer and Adding Stud Holes? 

200

These measurements are not doubled on blazers.

What are Shoulders, Sleeve length, Sleeve Opening, Length, Button Stance, and Button Distance?

200

You would apply this alteration to a core measurement area when a customer has erect posture affecting his back midsection. 

What is adding to the waist? 

200

This is the Knee-to-Bottom Cuff measurement after finding that the knee is 16" above the bottom hem, but the customer is getting 2.5" added to the length.  

What is 18.5" ?

200

Then neck is always measured like this. 

What is collar fold to button hole? 

200

This measurement is 100% influenced by what is applied to the blazer length.  

What is Button Stance? 

200
The wedding party is all going OTR but the customer only fits a size 52 blazer and the wedding is 4 weeks away. 

What is made to order with a rush fee? 

300

This measurement starts at the armpit and makes a 90-degree angle with the sleeve edge. 

What is the bicep?

300

This would be the back chest measurement of a 50" total circumference after moving the maximum amount possible to the back. 

What is 25.75"? 

300

The postural adjustment for eliminating "pooling" fabric at the back of the knee and/or thigh.

What is Lower Back Waistband?

300

When the shoulders are the same size on a DS and a Blazer, this area on the DS is about .25" - .5" longer than the blazers same area.

What is sleeve length? 

300

You are shortening the sleeve length of the blazer -.5" due to the amount that is being added to another area of the blazer 

(Hint: the answer is the amount being added AND the area it's being added to). 

What is +1" to the Shoulder Width? 

300

This is what we would do if the customer has a great fitting blazer but insists the shoulders/biceps feel snug, and he will not be wearing it ahead of time from his event. 

What is breaking in (or stretching) the blazer? 

400

This area goes from edge to edge 2" above the bottom hem for two products we offer. 

What are the Hips? 

400

The button stance needs to be lowered by -1.5", the customer is getting 1" shortened from the length, so you would change button stance by this amount. 

What is -2.5"?

400

This alteration is an extension of the leg taper when there is visible excess fabric in the seat. 

What is Half Back Seat Seam?
400

This is typically what the manufacturers consider the maximum they can drop from a chest to waist measurement.

What is 8 inches? 

400

The maximum amount you can move front/back chest or front/back waist.  

What is .75"?

400

The customer's blazer sleeve is 2.5" too long, his NBD is 2 weeks away, and pulling from sample sale is not an option. 

What is selling the customer on shortening the sleeve, making 1-2 buttons nonfunctional, and telling him you will recut after the event but this is to get him through it? 

500

This area is measured from the edge of fabric to the middle of the button hole. 

What is the DS Wrist? 

500

This would be the button stance measurement on a 1-Button Tuxedo Jacket when the try-on blazer has a button stance at 7.75" and button distance at 4.75".

We are shortening the jacket by -.5" but want the button stance to stay in the same spot. 

What is 12"?

500

This is an alteration done when the front and back waistbands both show signs they need to be lowered. 

What is taking in the crotch? 

500

This area needs 1" added to it when the customer is trying on a regular Dress Shirt at the fitting for his MTM Tuxedo Shirt. 

What is the french cuff?

500

The buffer needed to keep a shoulder size the same because it also need -1.5" taken in on the collar for having stooped posture. 

What is +.75" to shoudler width? 

500
The solution for an MTM customer needing a minimum 50" chest with a 40" waist size. 

What is aiming big on the waist so the chest is not cut too tight while setting expectations for post-production tailoring?