Oceanography
These are the 4 primary branches of Oceanography
Physical
Chemical
Biological
Geological
Distribution of heat creates:
seasonal patterns
winds/ocean currents
Vertical movement of cold nutrient rich water to the surface
Vertical movement of surface water downward in the water column
Upwelling
Downwelling
What does the ENSO index measure
showing the relative strength of El Nino and El nina conditions
True or false waves approach the shore at a perfect 90 degree angle, give reasoning for answer
false
Wave speed is proportional to the depth of water, not always same depth everywhere
Different segments of the wave crest travel at different speeds.
refers to the elevation of landforms above sea level
refers to depths of landforms below sea level
topography
bathymetry
What happens to heat at the high and low latitudes
low latitudes: more heat gained than lost(surplus)
High latitudes: more heat lost than gained (deficit)
The Atlantic Ocean consists of these two large subtropical gyres
North Atlantic Gyre: rotates clockwise
South Atlantic Gyre: rotates counterclockwise
These are the two large subtropical gyres of the Pacific Ocean
North Pacific Subtropical Gyre
South Pacific Subtropical Gyre
The three factors affecting wave energy
wind speed
wind duration
fetch
These are the main characteristics of oceans vs seas
seas are smaller and shallower
seas are directly connected to the ocean
seas are usually enclosed by land
These are the requirements to create a hurricane
ocean water warmer than 25 degrees Celsius
warm, moist air
the Coriolis effect
How does coastal upwelling happen
Ekman transport moves surface seawater away from the shore
Cool, nutrient rich deep water comes up to replace displaced surface waters
What are the problems associated with underwater turbines
Expensive
Difficult to maintain
harzard to boating
These are the two types of wave interferences and what they create
Constructive: In-phase wave trains (crest-crest, trough-trough) with about the same wavelengths that come together, producing waves of greater height
Destructive: Out-of-phase wave trains (crest-trough) with about the same wavelengths, resulting in a cancelling effect
These are the 4 ways sediment is carried to the ocean
stream
wind
glaciers
gravity
Trade winds: NE trade winds and SE trade winds
Prevailing westerly wind belts
polar easterly wind belts
How does coastal downwelling happen
ekman transport moves surface seawater toward shore
water piles up and moves downward in water column
Thermohaline Circulation is driven by two abiotic factors that influence density regardless of depth
Temp: warms in equatorial regions, cools in polar regions
Salinity: Increases due to evaporation and sea ice formation, decreases due to precipitation and sea ice melting
What are some characteristics of Tsunamis
Long wavelengths
Behaves as shallow water waves: Encompasses entire water column, regardless of ocean depth and can pass undetected under boats in open ocean
Speed proportional to water depth: very fast in open ocean
These are the characteristics of the major regions of the seafloor
Continental margins: Shallow-water areas close to shore
Deep sea basins: Deep-water areas farther from land
mid ocean ridges: Submarine mountain range, rift valley / divergent plate boundary
What causes the Coriolis Effect
differences in the speed of rotation of the Earth at different latitudes
-To right in Northern Hemisphere
-To left in Southern Hemisphere
-what causes hurricanes to spin
What do surface circulation patterns depend on
Geometry of the ocean basin
pattern of major wind belts
seasonal factors
other periodic changes
How do deep water masses circulate?
cold surface seawater sinks at polar regions, bringing oxygen rich surface water to deep ocean
deep ocean currents then move equatorward
What happens as a deep water wave becomes a shallow water wave
Wave speed decreases
Wavelength decreases
Wave height increases
Wave steepness (height/wavelength) increases