The Science of Surfing

Oceanography

100

Which of the following is NOT a primary factor in wave formation?

a) Wind speed
b) Water depth
c) Underwater volcanic activity
d) Fetch (distance wind blows over water)

Answer = c

200

What are tides and how are they caused? 

Tides are very long waves that move across the oceans. They are caused by the gravitational forces exerted on the earth by the moon, and to a lesser extent, the sun.

300

According to the TED-Ed video, what is the primary source of energy for ocean waves?

Wind

400

The speed of a deep-water wave primary depends on its:

a) Depth
b) Wavelength (distance between crests)

Answer = b

500

What are swells?

Swell waves are long-period waves that travel long distances from the storm that created them. They are deep-water waves that can travel thousands of miles without changing their height or period.

Hydrodynamics

100

Which force is most responsible for propelling a surfboard forward on a wave?

a) Gravity
b) Drag
c) Lift
d) Buoyancy

Ans = Lift

200

What is the purpose of the fin on the surfboard? 

The purpose of a fin on a surfboard is to provide stability, control, and steering by creating a pivot point at the back of the board, allowing surfers to manoeuvre and turn on a wave,

300

When trying to catch a wave, in which direction should you pivot the board? 

Same direction as the wave 

400

What concept does the TED-Ed video use to explain why a surfer can move faster than the wave they're on?

Circular motion of water particles in a wave. 

500

Why should the surfers weight be distributed equally on the board? 

Explain what would happen if there was too much weight on the front of the board?

Explain what would happen in there was too much weight at the back of the board? 

• Distribute weight evenly across the board for optimal paddling efficiency.
• Too much weight on the front of the board causes the nose to sink.
• Too much weight on the back of the board slows you down.

Meteorology

100

True or false:

Surfing can be significantly better in the early morning compare to later in the day due to calmer winds creating smoother, 'glassy' wave conditions. 

True

200

Which of the following meteorological factors can significantly impact surf conditions?
a) Air pressure
b) Wind direction and speed
c) Storm systems
d) All of the above

Ans = d

300

For surfing which winds are considered better for surfing?

a) Off shore winds
b) On shore winds
c) Cross shore winds

Ans = a

400

True or False?

Low-pressure systems can cause larger waves, while high-pressure systems can result in calmer seas.  

True

500

What are the 2 key factors that gives Sri Lanka its appeal as a surfing destination?

a) It has two primary monsoon seasons which allows for all year round surfing opportunities
b) Consistent swells from the Indian Ocean
c) Off-shore winds
d) Varied wave types suitable for beginners and experienced surfers. 

Coastal Geography

100

Which type of coastline is most likely to produce consistent and powerful surf breaks?
a) A long, sandy beach
b) A rocky point or reef
c) A calm, shallow bay
d) A muddy estuary

• 
  

Ans = b

200

The TED-Ed video explains that waves break when:
a) They travel to far
b) The wind stops blowing
c) They encounter a change in water depth
d) The tide goes out

Ans = c

300

Define 2 out of the 4 types of surf break types:

a) Beach break
b) Point break
c) Reef break
d) River mouth.

• Beach break: Waves break on a sandy bottom.
• Point break: Waves break at a point of land, then transition to breaking over a beach or reef.
• Reef break: Waves break over a coral reef or rock seabed.
• River mouth: Waves break into a river mouth, which can be located over sand or rock.

400

Why should surfers be aware of rip currents in the water? 

Rip currents

• What they are: Strong currents that flow away from the shore, caused by heavy waves 
• How they affect surfers: Can be dangerous for beginners and weak paddlers, but more advanced surfers can use them to their advantage 
• How to avoid them: Swim near a lifeguard or in areas marked safe for swimming 
• How to react if caught: Stay calm, as panic increases the risk of drowning 

500

What is the name of the water body that surrounds Sri Lanka?

Ans: Indian Ocean

Bonus Questions

100

Understanding the science of surfing can help surfers to:
a) Improve their surfing skills and safety
b) Appreciate the natural forces at play
c) Make informed decisions about where and when to surf
d) All of the above

Ans = d

200

As a beginner, what type of surf board would you use first? A short board or a long board?

As a beginner surfer, you want a long surfboard that prioritizes stability, ease of paddling, and forgiveness.

300

Is surfing a tsunami possible? 

Yes, people have surfed tsunamis, but it's generally not recommended. Tsunamis are not ideal for surfing because:

• Whitewater: Tsunamis are walls of whitewater that are full of debris, including garbage, parking meters, and dead animals
• No face: Tsunamis don't have a face, so there's nothing for a surfboard to grip
• Entire water column in motion: The entire water column is in motion, not just the top few feet
• Can't exit the wave: The trough behind the wave is far away, and all that water is moving towards you

400

What is the world's most exciting spot for giant 100 foot waves?

Nazare, Postugal

500

Name or describe the 4 parts of a surf board.  

Nose

Taill

Rails

Fin