How Waves Form
Erosion by Waves
Landforms Created by Waves
Deposits by Waves
Vocabulary
100
How do ocean waves form?
The energy from waves come from wind that blows across the water's surface
100
What are the two processes that waves can cause erosion?
Impact and abrasion
100
How do waves come into the shore?
on an angle
100
What else are some beaches made up of?
bits of coral and seashells
100
What is a spit?
a beach that projects like a finger out into the water.
200
How are large ocean waves formed from?
they are the result of powerful storms far out at sea.
200
What is the major force of erosion along coasts?
waves
200
How is a wave-cut cliff formed?
the waves continually hit the base of the rock in the same spot and the rock above it falls off forming a wave-cut cliff
200
Storm waves create these but they can also destroy them. What is the land formation being described?
barrier beach
200
What is a sea stack?
Blocks of rock offshore that have been cut away from a cliff.
300
What motion of the water causes the waves to shape the land?
the forward moving water
300
What is really wearing away the rock when the wave hits?
the gravel and sediment that the wave picks up
300
How is a sea arch formed?
waves erode a layer of softer rock that underlies a layer of harder rock.
300
When do spits occur?
where a headland or other obstacle interrupts longshore drift
300
What is a sandbar?
When incoming waves that are carrying sand pile up.
400
What causes water particles to move up and down as the wave goes by?
the energy the water picks up.
400
Do waves ever change direction as they are coming in and if so why?
yes, the drag along the bottom and this changes their direction
400
What happens when a sea arch falls down?
the result might be a sea stack
400
When does deposition occur?
when waves slow down and the water drops its sediment
400
What is a beach?
an area of wave washed sediment along a coast. Some beaches also include bits of coral and seashells that are being washed up by the waves.
500
How does a wave change as it approaches land?
the wave begins to drag on the bottom of the ocean and slow it down as reached shallow water
500
Why are headlands eroded faster than the land at the ends of inlets and bays?
wave refraction concentrates the wave energy at the headlands increasing the erosion in comparison to inlets and bays
500
Describe two landforms created by wave erosion and two landforms created by wave deposition
Sea stacks and Wave-cut cliffs, Spits and sandbars
500
What other process is the process of deposition from waves similar to?
the process of deposition on a river
500
What is longshore drift?
As repeated waves hit the beach, some of the beach sediment moves down the beach with the current.