Wave formation
Types of waves
Characteristics
Definitions
100

Waves are started by disturbance.

What are generating forces?


100

Travels in water deeper than 1/2 its wavelength.

What are deep water waves?

100

the highest point of a wave

What is the crest?

100

an area of seaward-flowing water

What is a rip current?

200

The amount of open water a wind blows over.

What is Fetch?

200

formed by local storms

What is a progressive wave?

200

lowest point of a wave

What is a trough?

200

the point or a points around which a standing wave oscillates

What is a node?

300

Waves are the result of this. Its speed and length determines its size. 

What is wind?

300

Energy from a storm or other generating force no longer has an effect on the waves 

What is a free wave?

300

 half of the wave height 

What is amplitude?

300

high and low points at each end of a standing wave 

What are antipodes?

400

Water that is displaced, waves move away from the source. 

What is an earthquake?

400

Forms around a node

What is a standing wave?

400

time it takes for two consecutive crests or troughs to pass a point

What is a wave period?

400

movement of water or sediment down a shore in the direction of wave action

What is a longshore transport?

500

Evenly spaced waves with smooth rounded crests and troughs. 

What are swells?

500

travel between 1/2 and 1/20th of its wavelength 

What is an intermediate wave?

500

speed can change but period remains the same 

What is a frequency?

500

change in direction of a wave as it moves into shallow water

What is a refraction?