Wave formation
Waves are started by disturbance.
What are generating forces?
Travels in water deeper than 1/2 its wavelength.
What are deep water waves?
the highest point of a wave
What is the crest?
an area of seaward-flowing water
What is a rip current?
The amount of open water a wind blows over.
What is Fetch?
formed by local storms
What is a progressive wave?
lowest point of a wave
What is a trough?
the point or a points around which a standing wave oscillates
What is a node?
Waves are the result of this. Its speed and length determines its size.
What is wind?
Energy from a storm or other generating force no longer has an effect on the waves
What is a free wave?
half of the wave height
What is amplitude?
high and low points at each end of a standing wave
What are antipodes?
Water that is displaced, waves move away from the source.
What is an earthquake?
Forms around a node
What is a standing wave?
time it takes for two consecutive crests or troughs to pass a point
What is a wave period?
movement of water or sediment down a shore in the direction of wave action
What is a longshore transport?
Evenly spaced waves with smooth rounded crests and troughs.
What are swells?
travel between 1/2 and 1/20th of its wavelength
What is an intermediate wave?
speed can change but period remains the same
What is a frequency?
change in direction of a wave as it moves into shallow water
What is a refraction?